Under the gaze of Denali

100927 Under the gaze of Denali


We slept in this morning, it was even colder this morning, it was below Zero degrees F, it was about minus 22 degrees C. We had breakfast, cleared the ice off the inside of the windows (see photo of Linda) and then headed back out to the area where we knew the scent had been laid for the route for the Moose to enter the valley, hoping to see some Moose and look for the Urmine seen the evening before.

We took a slow drive on the approach, when up ahead was a huge male, crossing the road, at the same point as the group last night, but as we approached he was in the trees and we were not able to secure a photo.

While waiting, Joshua armed with the Bino’s spotted some Dall Sheep up on the side of the foot of the mountain, in the area we suspected was the pass through which the Moose were moving. The photo below is the best we could get with our camera, these sheep are very elusive and stay high in the mountains, or rocky edges as their defence against the Wolf.

The valley on the left we considered as the Moose route Denali NP

We left the park and proceeded south along the Parks Highway. This provided us with ever improving views of Mt Denali, also known as Mt McKinley. The Inuit call it Denali, the high one, so I take it as it’s original name. Below are some photo’s from varying spots along the road.

The photo below with the Trumpeter Swans on it in the foreground was taken, after driving past this lake, taking 5 miles to find a turn around spot for the 30’ RV, and then having to go about another mile past it on the return to find a safe enough spot to pull off the road. Then Joshua and I hiked back in a strong wind, the wind chill factor was almost unbearable. I saw an approach to the lake that avoided having to walk though the dying blueberry bushes and the mounds of Peat, however when we started on this ‘grassy area’ we were to find out it was in fact the lake, it was icy but I didn’t feel it would hold up our body weight and I did not consider falling through this ice to be a good option, so we had to scout around up and through the icy peat bog and blueberry bushes, but we got there, not as close to the waters edge as I’d hoped, due to the ice, but, felt the hike was worth the photo, though Joshua may disagree.

Mt Denali

Trumpeter Swan's under Mt Denali

After thawing out back at the RV and checking Joshua fingers for frostbite, we turned around and headed south again. The road then ran along side the Nenana River for a while, so we were able to stop and wonder at this large river icing up. We also took a movie of it, as the river produced interesting sounds as the ice proceeded along the river.

Nenana River ice flow.

Ice Flow - Nenana River

Joshua and I were in search of a viewing point we’d seen Mt Denali from back in 2006. Having revisited the Veterans memorial and checked out Byers Lake, where we’d camped last time, in hope of finding water to fill the RV but again we were to discover the water turned off.  Due to the freezing of the ground, campground water is turned off, hence why all the RV parks were closed. Soon after this, we found ‘South View Denali’ day use area and dry camping.

We found the spot, Denali View South.  A hike up and out toward Denali provides the best view from this point.

Mt Denali from Denali View South

We decided not to camp here as our water was low. We stopped to get some fuel at Trappers Creek, to find that they also had showers and access to water. We spent a few hours here after refueling, enjoying hot showers with no time limit, ice creams and afternoon tea. We chatted to some of the locals. As Linda put it, it could get a bit scary here after dark, as some of the characters were fine in the daylight, but….

We were to learn that their power had only just come back on, as three days before there were winds of 125 mile an hour that had blown through and taken down the powerlines. Most of the area south of here was blacked out for 3 days. It explained the huge trees that had broken off about 3 metre off the ground and the other debris at the Veterans Memorial back up the road. We hadn’t experienced any of that back at Fairbanks.

Veteran's Memorial via Byers Lake.

A short drive down the highway and we found a gravel bar along side the Susitna River, to camp on, to enjoy a campfire and a warmer evening. It only got down to Zero Celcius and the river was not as yet starting to freeze.

Weather: Bright and Sunny Clear Sky. Morning Temp at Denali NP minus 22 C. High at Trapper Creek warm and sunny 5 C.

Wildlife: Bull Moose, Trumpeter Swans.

O/N N 62 10.282 W 150 10.921 (Yes this may appear we are in the middle of the river, we were out on the gravel bar, this would be under water in the thaw)

Camp beside Susitna River.

Moon Rise - Susitna River

A day in Denali National Park in September

100926 A day in Denali National Park in September with no tourists.


Having gained an insight into the current wildlife sightings along the Park road in Denali, we decided to spend the day exploring. The other photographers commenced heading out a little after 7am.

We set off about 7.30am, however all but the driver stayed in bed, as it is about 13 miles to Sanctuary River, where two wolves had been sighted over the past two days, one black and one grey and tan. Travelling at 10 – 20 miles per hour for effective wildlife spotting, it was a slow trip out.

I’d noticed that it was a great deal colder then previous, it took a while to get the windscreen clear, however, once we stopped at Sanctuary River, it became clear how cold it was.

The RV has these pull down window shades, in two stages, the first stage is white and allows filter light in but affords privacy, the second is more of a block out and also has a thermal block as well. When Linda put the blinds up, to allow a view over the river while we ate breakfast, the usual condensation that we wipe clear was in fact about 5mm thick of ice, on the 'INSIDE'. The usual ‘wipe’ was met with total resistance and a sound of scratching. This was awesome. As predicted by Russ, it was about 0 degrees F, equalling about minus 18 C.

Also this morning, there was some low cloud. Mt Denali was not in view nor was the tops of the adjoining mountains.

Joshua and I explored Sanctuary River which was significantly icing up. We found an ice bridge to cross out to a further gravel bar. We took some photo’s and scouted around for a wolf and other wildlife, but nothing. Soon after it started to snow. This was the first snow of the season. If the day was to be cloudy, then enjoying it snow was a delight.

Just before lunch we drove along the Park road to Teklinika Camp ground and noted though it was shut, the gates weren’t locked, a plan was forming. Up past the camp is a parking area and ‘bus stop’ with toilets and a viewing platform overlooking the Teklinika River. We parked here and had a small walk, looking for Lynx. A few Lynx’ had been sighted in this area over the past two days, one had some kittens. The road was closed to us from this point, but hikers could proceed.

Tayla, Joshua and I took a hike down the steep embankment to the gravel bars of the river and walked out to the middle. Like the Sanctuary River, this river was also icing up. We had more than an hour of playing on the ice, testing ice bridges to access gravel bars further out, making it to the flowing river. The kids threw rocks to test how solid the ice was, some would go through, but many others would simply bounce off.

After lunch, I decided to hike along the road, up to the bridge that crosses the Teklinika and scout around for some Wolves that had a den up here.  Upstream of the bridge had been closed during the season, as a wolf den was upstream a little. I took some great photo’s however, while taking the one below, I was in the prone position (lying on my stomach) to put the natural ice feature in the foreground and Igloo Mountain in the background, when I heard some ice cracking steps over to my right. After re-starting my heart, I looked over to see a Park Ranger, walking down the edge of the river. After enjoying a laugh, he explained he was removing the signs that prohibited venturing further up the river from this point, as the pups were old enough now to travel and he’d expect the mum and pups would be moving on for the winter.

While we were returning along the Park road, we discovered that Teklinika Camp gate had been locked, a plan foiled. Joshua and I had a very quiet walk around the camp, attempting to spot the Lynx, as it was late in the afternoon, but no luck.

We returned to the lookout where we’d had dinner the night before, and enjoyed dinner and hoped the sky might clear for a view of Denali. All the mountains were now shrouded in a cloak of snow. They were a beautiful sight.

It was starting to get dark as we headed back toward Riley Camp, when we came across two parked cars within the 5 mile road area posted by warning signs of Moose rutting in this area. As advised by Rus and his mate the Moose researcher, no Moose had moved into the valley as yet, they were late again this year, due to the warm weather.

However, things had commenced to change. The first Moose were coming through, three cows and one HUGE bull, this bull was so big, his ‘paddles’ (as the locals call the horns) where enormous. As he walked along he was grunting and from time to time attacking a tree to show off his fighting skills. If only there was another bull we’d get to see the full Rut ritual. It was quite dark, however I got one successful photo when he stopped to look around. The Rut had begun. We spent just under an hour watching them come through and cross the road.

In the middle of this, Linda, Joshua and Tayla spotted a slim white creature, bigger than a squirrel but acted a bit like a squirrel. It was too dark to get a photo as this animal was very active. One of the other photographers on the road with us advised them it was an Ermine, a very rare animal to see in the Park.

On returning to Camp we found Rus and advised him of the Moose sighting, so he was delaying his plans to return tomorrow and would go out again.  He gave me some insight to a great camera I should get, another plan was forming.

Weather: Rather Cold Low minus 18 C High about minus 3 C.

Wildlife: Moose in the Rut.

O/N N 63 43.891 W 148 53.861

Sanctuary River icing over - Denali NP



Joshua standing on a small ice bridge - Sanctuary River Denali NP



Ice forming and river flowing underneath - Sanctuary River - Denali NP

Teklinika River with Igloo Mnt in background

The number of toilets let you know how many tourists in Summer Season

Tayla testing our an icebridge to get out to the flowing river.

Tayla and Ice

Graham testing out ice bridge - Teklinka River

Joshua testing how cold the water is.

Tayla testing how cold he water is.

Just shows how quick the cold came in at this drain under the road.

Another angle on the Drain Freeze Up.

First Snow on Igloo Mountain

Icing Up

A view of the Denali Range from the same dinner spot as the night before, with first snow.

The Park Road into Denali NP

Sunset

Savage River and First Snow

Park Road - First Snow

First Bull Moose into the Rut - Denali NP

North Pole to Denali

100925 North Pole to Denali


After a sleep in, we washed our clothes, filled with water and headed across to the North Pole. Not the Magnetic nor True North Pole but a small town that lays to the East of Fairbanks, whom the early trappers named North Pole.

The main feature at North Pole is Santa’s House. Have a look at these two pictures. The first is taken in 2006 of our daughter, Tayla, the second photo was today. Some more pics below.

Tayla 2006 visit

Joshua and Tayla 2010

After popping into a quilt shop and restocking with food and fuel, we attempted to located the Uni of Alaska’s wildlife research farm to view musk ox and bison. We knew where the Uni was, found some research area on caribou, but could not find the farm. We rang the number but it went to an answering machine. Their advert in the Mile Post (travel guide) has no address. We failed to locate it, so we got on the road to Denali.

You can see Denali from Fairbanks which is about the same Distance, as if Denali was at the Bunya Moutains and you could view it from Brisbane.  See photo below.

After nearly three hours of driving, having crossed and followed the Nenana River, we drove into Denali Park to find it empty at 6pm. The Park is open all year round, but it turns out in September the visitor centre closes at 4.00pm, that park is open as far as Teklinika Camp, there is no camping inside the park boundary, but Riley Camp Ground is open which is at the front. It is free to enter and to camp.

This is a vast difference to when the Tourist Season is on, it is quiet pricy, with camping fees, vehicle entry fees, you can’t take your vehicle into the park unless you are camping for a minimum of 3 days, and if your vehicle is over 21’ long, it can only travel on the road between 10pm and 6 am. So, it seems we have the park to ourselves, or so we thought.
For us this is heaven.
After driving into the park and enjoying dinner with a view of Denali in the distance, and establishing all this info from a German couple who had also pulled up at this point, we returned to Riley Camp Ground to find only the front section open (Bear Loop) and it was ¾ full. I spoke to Rus Gustep who is a video photographer and he enlightened me on why all the campers. Besides some coming down from Fairbanks for the weekend the rest were professional photographers who were here to photograph the Moose in their Rut and hopefully film some predation (wolves attacking moose calves). He also advised the weather for tonight, an expected 5 degrees F or a bit lower, maybe down to 1F. That equates to about minus 18 C. He kindly provided the kids with a copy of his video on Denali which we watched before lights out.

Enjoy the photo’s of Denali on our day 1 and some of Santas House at North Pole

Weather: Cold Low minus 9C High 5 C at Fairbanks.

Wildlife: Nil

O/N N 63 43.891 W 148 53.861

Dinner view of Denali N 63 43.635 W 149 21.450

Mt Denali (Mt McKinley) from Fairbanks - Zoomed in)

Savage River - Denali NP.

Moon Rise - Denali NP

Tayla in Santas House - North Pole

Tayla with Moose at Santas House - North Pole

Santas Reindeer - North Pole

Tayla in Santa's Sleigh - North Pole

Santa's House - North Pole

Arctic Circle - the journey back

100924 - Arctic Cicle - the return journey

Had a lovely night of watching the Northern Lights and enjoyed the quiet solitude.  Slept in and awoke to another wonderfully blue clear bright sky.  Enjoyed a slow breakfast and potter around.

Returned to the Arctic Circle sign post and grabbed a better photo in the morning sun, than yesterdays setting sun.  Steven and Maree headed off around 7am, we didn't get out of bed until about 9am.

The drive back was cold, a wind came up, from the north, so the windchill factor was about minus 20C.

The drive up was with no stops except the Yukon river for smoko.  So we took a more leisurely drive back.  We stopped at 'Finger Moutain' see photo below, where we enjoyed the full effect of the wind and its chill factor.  Finger Mountain has a long history with the original Inuit inhabitants as this area is an abundant food area in the summer with caribou herds, moose, bear and berry fruits.  It was a navigation marker and it is reported having been standing for the past 1,000 years or more.

Bush Pilots used it as a nav marker as it points /leans directly toward Fairbanks (life before GPS)

At one point along the road, at a high point, the air was freezing around the pine trees and then this ice like snow was blowing off the trees as a thick dust, an unusual effect on a bright clear day.

Lunched back at the Yukon River and deservedly purchased our "I crossed the Arctic Circle" T'Shirts.

Returned to Fairbanks late, dropped into our first Wallmart.  Tayla enjoys a transviliquest who does this skit where the dummy would like to work at Wallmart as the greeter and announce, "Welcome to Wallmart, get your s..t and get out of here".   So I tried to get her to have her 15 mins of fame, to no avail.

Found an RV camp open, it is where they host the annual international Ice Carving Chamionships.  This is a very run down RV Park, not recommended, but it had hot showers, though pathetic and of course free internet, some relief.

We are heading to Denali today.

Weather:  About minus 6 C or so, H  0 C

Wildlife:  Nil

O/N N 64 50.740  W 147 46.240

You can see the road, this is just below the Arctic Cicle, typical landscape for many miles.

 Linda and Tayla enjoying the fresh breeze and views at 'Finger Mountain'

 Linda and Tayla taking a leisurely stroll back to the RV, with Finger Mountain feature in the background.