Exploring Alaska by RV: A day in Denali National Park in September

100926 A day in Denali National Park in September with no tourists.

Having gained an insight into the current wildlife sightings along the Park road in Denali, we decided to spend the day exploring. The other photographers commenced heading out a little after 7am.

We set off about 7.30am, however all but the driver stayed in bed, as it is about 13 miles to Sanctuary River, where two wolves had been sighted over the past two days, one black and one grey and tan. Travelling at 10 – 20 miles per hour for effective wildlife spotting, it was a slow trip out.

I’d noticed that it was a great deal colder then previous, it took a while to get the windscreen clear, however, once we stopped at Sanctuary River, it became clear how cold it was.

The RV has these pull down window shades, in two stages, the first stage is white and allows filter light in but affords privacy, the second is more of a block out and also has a thermal block as well. When Linda put the blinds up, to allow a view over the river while we ate breakfast, the usual condensation that we wipe clear was in fact about 5mm thick of ice, on the 'INSIDE'. The usual ‘wipe’ was met with total resistance and a sound of scratching. This was awesome. As predicted by Russ, it was about 0 degrees F, equalling about minus 18 C.

Also this morning, there was some low cloud. Mt Denali was not in view nor was the tops of the adjoining mountains.

Joshua and I explored Sanctuary River which was significantly icing up. We found an ice bridge to cross out to a further gravel bar. We took some photo’s and scouted around for a wolf and other wildlife, but nothing. Soon after it started to snow. This was the first snow of the season. If the day was to be cloudy, then enjoying it snow was a delight.

Just before lunch we drove along the Park road to Teklinika Camp ground and noted though it was shut, the gates weren’t locked, a plan was forming. Up past the camp is a parking area and ‘bus stop’ with toilets and a viewing platform overlooking the Teklinika River. We parked here and had a small walk, looking for Lynx. A few Lynx’ had been sighted in this area over the past two days, one had some kittens. The road was closed to us from this point, but hikers could proceed.

Tayla, Joshua and I took a hike down the steep embankment to the gravel bars of the river and walked out to the middle. Like the Sanctuary River, this river was also icing up. We had more than an hour of playing on the ice, testing ice bridges to access gravel bars further out, making it to the flowing river. The kids threw rocks to test how solid the ice was, some would go through, but many others would simply bounce off.

After lunch, I decided to hike along the road, up to the bridge that crosses the Teklinika and scout around for some Wolves that had a den up here. Upstream of the bridge had been closed during the season, as a wolf den was upstream a little. I took some great photo’s however, while taking the one below, I was in the prone position (lying on my stomach) to put the natural ice feature in the foreground and Igloo Mountain in the background, when I heard some ice cracking steps over to my right. After re-starting my heart, I looked over to see a Park Ranger, walking down the edge of the river. After enjoying a laugh, he explained he was removing the signs that prohibited venturing further up the river from this point, as the pups were old enough now to travel and he’d expect the mum and pups would be moving on for the winter.

While we were returning along the Park road, we discovered that Teklinika Camp gate had been locked, a plan foiled. Joshua and I had a very quiet walk around the camp, attempting to spot the Lynx, as it was late in the afternoon, but no luck.

We returned to the lookout where we’d had dinner the night before, and enjoyed dinner and hoped the sky might clear for a view of Denali. All the mountains were now shrouded in a cloak of snow. They were a beautiful sight.

It was starting to get dark as we headed back toward Riley Camp, when we came across two parked cars within the 5 mile road area posted by warning signs of Moose rutting in this area. As advised by Rus and his mate the Moose researcher, no Moose had moved into the valley as yet, they were late again this year, due to the warm weather.

However, things had commenced to change. The first Moose were coming through, three cows and one HUGE bull, this bull was so big, his ‘paddles’ (as the locals call the horns) where enormous. As he walked along he was grunting and from time to time attacking a tree to show off his fighting skills. If only there was another bull we’d get to see the full Rut ritual. It was quite dark, however I got one successful photo when he stopped to look around. The Rut had begun. We spent just under an hour watching them come through and cross the road.

In the middle of this, Linda, Joshua and Tayla spotted a slim white creature, bigger than a squirrel but acted a bit like a squirrel. It was too dark to get a photo as this animal was very active. One of the other photographers on the road with us advised them it was an Ermine, a very rare animal to see in the Park.

On returning to Camp we found Rus and advised him of the Moose sighting, so he was delaying his plans to return tomorrow and would go out again. He gave me some insight to a great camera I should get, another plan was forming.

Weather: Rather Cold Low minus 18 C High about minus 3 C.

Wildlife: Moose in the Rut.

O/N N 63 43.891 W 148 53.861